A hidden jewel along Wyomings Medicine Bow River
Through the blowing snow, the place looked more like a farmhouse or Bed and Breakfast than a hotel. We kicked the snow off our boots, shook off the cold and stepped into the warmth of a tribute to the past. Every piece of furniture was in perfect condition and precisely in its place. Pictures depicting the history of the property filled the walls, while a modern commercial coffee urn, filled with hot coffee, sat on an antique table. It was like walking into my grandparents’ home, where the welcome you receive is a mix of joy and relief that you have finally arrived.
We were made to feel like honored guests from the moment we arrived. Being that the hotel and been closed for nearly a week, and scheduled to remain so until mid-January, our arrival was an interruption to the staffs much needed holiday, though we were never once made to feel as if we were anything but honored guests. They opened the hotel, allowed us to bring our four-legged traveling companion all so we would not be stuck in our car through the frigid night. No matter how luxurious a property is, it’s the people who make your stay a memorable experience.
Courtney told us they would be bringing in staff to open their restaurant for us. She would not hear of our being able to get by through the night on the rations we carried with us. We were to be offered a meal and that was the end of it. We agreed on a time for dinner, and having been handed the room key, set off to find our room.
All twelve of the hotel’s rooms are on the second floor, with each room named after a famous person in Wyoming History. We were assigned the Eliza Swain room which was the first room on the left at the top of the stairs. Though we were familiar with some of the names on the rooms, such as the mountain man Jim Bridger and General John Fremont, the name Eliza Swain did not ring any bells for us. Fortunately, the hotel website www.elkmountainhotel.com has an explanation of every name assigned to very room and its relevance to the area’s history.
From the website we learned that in 1870, Eliza Swain was the first woman in Wyoming to cast a ballot. The next year, Wyoming’s women sat on juries. When in 1890, statehood was threatened by congressional opposition, Wyoming refused to budge on the issue of women’s suffrage. On July 10, 1890, Wyoming became the “Equality State.”
Other rooms were named after famous musicians such as Louis Armstrong, Hank Thompson and Lawrence Welk. Located nearly halfway between Denver and Salt Lake City, The Elk Mountain Hotel hosted many Musicians passing through. A previous owner, Mark Jackson, himself a musician, proved successful in enticing traveling bands to perform at the Garden Spot Pavilion that stood on the property until the early 2000’s. Apparently, folks came from far and wide to enjoy the performances.
Our room was furnished with antiques, a private bathroom, elegant throw rugs. Our window looked out on the frozen Medicine Bow River. Every item in the room complemented a theme of days gone by with an elegant attention to detail. The closest I have ever been to staying in such a room was in the Garden District of New Orleans in 2021. We were finally able to relax.
After settling into our room, my wife went downstairs to fill our coffee cups and met Eddie. Eddie, as it turned out, would be the only other lodger in the hotel with us that night. A truck driver from North Carolina, Eddie was hauling a load of high-end furniture to Salt Lake City when high winds blew over his entire semi-truck and trailer, stranding him with only the gear he could salvage from the wreck. He was talkative and happy to be standing in the warmth of the hotel sipping hot coffee. I later noticed the woodstove had at some point been converted to burning gas, allowing for a modern convenience to replace a wood fired stove, while maintaining the original look.
We made our way back downstairs to the dining room at the agreed upon time and sat down at one of the tables. They kitchen staff was prepared to offer a limited menu for the evening and a full bar. A local couple came in to dine with us while Eddie remained in his room.
My French dip sandwich was excellent as were the French fries. My wife enjoyed a hamburger, after which we shared an apple strudel for dessert. We were told that local kids were trained to prepare every meal on the menu by the resident chef. A pastry chef, who winters in Florida, leaves a freezer full of confections for the winter patrons.
Before the staff left for the night, we all went up and checked on Eddie to be certain he was okay. We were all concerned he may have taken a blow to the head in the accident, which had us concerned for his well-being. Eddie answered the door, seemed coherent, though a little beat up, as he assured us, he was fine. We told him to knock on our door should he need anything during the night. As is the norm, Hotel staff leave the premise for the night, leaving only a phone number for guests to call should any issues arise in their absence.
I was advised to make certain I took the key with me when I let our dog out during the night, as locks tend to lock on their own in the hotel. I looked around the lower floor and found a book entitled: Haunted Hotels of the West, in which the Elk Mountain Hotel was prominently featured. Two spirits were known to haunt the hotel: Mary Evans, the wife of the hotel founder, and a little girl who is often seen looking out a window onto the grounds.
That night, taking our dog out into the frigid night air that exceeded -20 degrees, I found myself glued to the hotel windows looking for the little girl to be peering out at me. Two white tailed deer who live on the property stepped out of the trees to check us out.
We slept in comfort and woke up to the return of the staff and a full coffee urn. I conversed with Eddie who positioned himself beside the stove, as we drank coffee, and he told me the story of his truck blowing over firsthand. He mentioned losing his phone in the wreck and I offered to loan him mine. His first call was to his boss who was far more interested in the truck and trailer than in Eddie’s well-being. I had to walk away from his conversation.
Having seen no spirits during the night, I looked at the Wyoming highway website as to when the Interstate may once again be open. The early morning estimate for reopening was sometime after two pm. We began the process of packing up while the staff promised to serve a late breakfast.
The sky was a clear blue with the air a frigid twenty below zero, though there was no wind. Eddie returned my phone and asked for a ride to Laramie where he could catch a ride with another driver back to North Carolina. We juggled a few things around and made room for him. As we were getting ready to eat, we received word the interstate was open for eastbound travel. We met one of the young ladies who had prepared our meal the night before. She stepped into the dining room which allowed us to express our gratitude to her.
As we pulled away from this wonderfully maintained hotel, with its lovely grounds alongside the banks of the river, we waved goodbye to one of the deer who came out to see us off. We drove away, with Eddie in the front and my wife in the back, tucked amongst Christmas presents, feeling as if we had left good friends behind. Almost twenty-four hours ago, we exited the interstate in a tough spot, and we were now getting back on with a story of kindness to tell.
Twisted Words OF D.E. Haines 